letter from varese, italia

I just got the email that made my day. My dearest friend Natalie and her beau, Nate, are traveling around Europe for six months, and I just got an update on how they've been doing. Their farm stories, talk of beautiful sights and all that food they're eating just makes me hungry and wanting to read more! Thought I'd share with you as an inspiration to go somewhere, Granada, Sardinia, anywhere! 

Dear family and friends!

Sorry this email is getting to you several weeks late. 

Here is an update on what we have been doing in the past two months or so:

Nate and I started our travels in  in Pollensa, Mallorca where we WWOOF-ed ( Willing Workers on Organic Farms) . The farm, the little quaint town of Pollensa were absolutely beautiful!! The farm produces organic olive oil (which was delicious!) using a very old and impressive pressing system (which I have pictures of.) The farm is owned by am American family living in Washington, D.C. and we worked alongside the ground-keeper, a local Mallorquin. We were given 50 Euro a week per person to buy food, and we had our own separate apartment in the house. Nate and I enjoyed cooking together every night, using the olive oil from the press. On the weekends, we walked to the cute town, especially enjoying the open air markets on Sunday. 

After that we spent two days in Barcelona and Nathan was completely blown away by La Sagrada Familia, which we were able to see the interior of. We of course also loved Park Guell and the other architectural gems in the city. 

Then it was off to Granada, Spain! I have been wanting to go to Granada ever since I saw a poster of the Alhambra.  We worked on an organic goat-raising and cheese-making farm about 30 km away from the city.  Most of our work involved taking care of the goats, which I really enjoyed! Goats are pretty darn cute! (Especially, the little baby goats who dance around) We herded them and make sure that they grazed on the pasture. The farm reminded me of the hippy coops I lived in in Berkeley. At the house were other volunteers from Italy, Germany and Spain.  We ate fresh and cured goat cheese pretty much every day (as well as milk and amazing yogurt!) YUMMMMM. Although the weather was COLD COLD COLD, the beautiful landscapes, cute goats, delicious cheese, and hilarious hippy farm owner (Rafael) made it definitely worth it!!!

Although we loved the goat farm, it was nice to reconnected with civilzation in the city of Granada. The town reminds me of UC Berkeley in the fact that many of the residents are students, and there is definitely a bohemian vibe to the place- although Berkeley cannot lay claim to having the Alhambra right smack in the middle. Nathan, a German volunteer at the farm and I stayed at a lovely guest house near the Mirador San Nicolas, which overlooks the Alhambra and the beautiful snow-covered mountains. Emily would also love Granada, because with the purchase of one or two drinks, you get UNLIMITED TAPAS!!! (Sorry if this whole email is about FOOD, haha) 

From there was the city of SEVILLA. Nathan was pretty blown away by the city- it was incredibly beautiful. The cathedral housing the remains of Christopher Columbus and the Plaza de Espana (where witch-burnings took place during the Inquisition) were definite highlights. Also the bloom of orange trees everywhere in the city was an amazing thing.

From Sevilla we fly to Sardinia, Italy. Highlights there include the beautiful beach and archeological sties at Nora, an ancient Phonencian and then Roman city (outside of the capital) and staying in a quaint town called Bosa near Alghero in the north. 

Then it was off to ROMA where Emily's friend PAOLA was incredibly hospitable!!! We stayed at her apartment a good 5 or 6 nights! I absolutely loved Rome and had a hard time leaving. Nathan and I did not know how to express our gratitude to Paola and her roommate (because we don't really know what they like), so we cooked them a Mexican dinner with hand-made torillas and an assortment of fresh salsas. They really enjoyed it!!

Then it was off to an herb-distillation farm  (Podere Santa Bianca) in Pomerance in the province of Pisa, which of course is in beautiful Tuscany. The farm was established only a few years ago by Claudio Gaiaschi, who was a successful photograher in Milan but wanted a change of pace in life and renovated an abandoned farm. They grow lavender, rosemary, thyme and (not sure what it is called in english, but they it "CREE-ZOH"). Needless to say, it was the best smelling farm yet! We ate dinner with Claudio and his wife every night and Nathan offered to cook Mexican food one night. I was incredibly anxious at the thought of cooking for TUSCANS (Claudio's partner was born and raised in Tuscany), seeing that they are incredibly proud of their food culture. They then invited two other foodie Tuscan friends to the dinner. Needless to say I was nervous about the meal, but we made fresh corn and flour tortillas, a variety of salsa, chicken fajitas, and rice. THEY LOVED IT!!! They ate everything--- and we made a lot. What a relief. 

Then we spent one night in PISA, took funny pictures in front of the Leaning Tower and then spent about three nights in the cute little town of LUCCA, in Tuscany. We had a great time biking around the city, and we even set up a vegetable garden for the young woman we stayed with. 

From there we spent three nights in FLORENCE, which was expensive but definitely a treat. We slept in a hostel near Piazzale Michaelangiolo, which over looks the city- it was the best view in town. The obvious highlights were the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery, which we wasily spent 4.5 hours in. I loved the Botticelli's and Caravaggio's.  

Then it was off to Amedeo's place in Varese. We have had a nice week here and are about to take off to Torino, again to hang out with Paola and her family. 

All in all, our experience thus far has been nothing short of amazing. We are constantly meeting great people, eating good food and learning new things (like the best way to herd goats, haha). 

Oh, and par for par, every city we have been in is full of Senegalese street vendors. The majority of them get a little freaked out when a tall white guy from the States starts speaking to them in their language. 

Anyhoo, sorry this is getting to you so late. I really miss all of you!!! Big hugs and Kisses, 

Nat & Nate

chicago blues

I've always wanted a job that pays me to travel. And long and behold, the first real one I got out of college does just that once in a while. Since, I've been to NYC, the OC and most recently, the windy city in Chicago, where I confirmed that my love for thin-crust Neapolitan style pizza far outweighs the Chicago deep dish, and that I have the good fortune of visiting new places in beautiful, blue sky weather.

My stroll along Memorial Park. I wonder if the architect is the same who did the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles. 

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Jamba and naps for two. Public space at its prime.
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couchsurfing photo project

exhibit A: 
Ariel
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praha//prague, czech republic

exhibit B:  
Miklós
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 budapest, hungary

exhibit C:

Evelyn
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 wien/vienna, austria

These photos are of the last three couches-turned-into-beds that I've slept on via www.couchsurfing.org (I think there are around 15 in total!). Theses couchses represent much more than a place to lay my head after a long day's of walking and wandering. They symbolize the generosity of humanity, each couch holding the name of my host, unique and full of stories, laughs, struggles and surprises.

While traveling I'm much more interested in living the lives people do in the cities I visit over the luxuries of a hotel or even hostel. Couchsurfing has allowed me to do just that--to be welcomed into the homes of complete strangers and instant friends, to drink their coffee, cook hot dinners with them, listen to their stories, share mine, soak up their knowledge, try and speak their language, hang out with their friends, be part of their culture.

Funny, I feel like I've learned more about European history these past four months than I have in a year of AP Euro. I wish I can rewind to high school now that I have visuals for all those dead old men, cathedrals, battles and bridges that were written in the textbook, and much more.

Traveling is all about following your intuition, and while on my own, I've learned a thing or two about that. I'm utterly grateful for the people (who I now call friends) who've welcomed me into their homes, their lives and secrets and the many, many recipes and mouthwatering memories at dinnertime. I'm constantly thinking about how I want to contribute to the world; now more interested in so many parts of the world, its hidden pockets and the wonderful people who inhabit them, I'm also much, much more thankful for the place I can call home and can't wait to return.. in just a few days!

a spanish feast, kitchen fired!

Although my pictures might suggest otherwise, helpXing at La Casa del Viento has been a lot of hard work..  Getting up at 7:30 in the morning (on a good day; usually it's just around 7:45) to start my 8am watering, gardening and pool cleaning duties before the sun does its torture, followed by a coffee break and then other jobs that need to be done for the afternoon. On Thursday, after typical morning responsibilities, Ann gave me the day off, and relaxing was it not--rather I took a roundtrip sick-to-my-stomach bus ride through the Andalucían mountains to the "white villages" and with an old travel guide hiked from one village to another, Pampanería to Búbion.
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What was supposed to be a twenty minute walk ended up in an hour of isolation, steep trek full of hills, weeds, rocks and unpredicted rattling. There were occasions when I thought to myself, if I got hurt or collapsed, no one would hear me, and who knows what would happen, and oh.. Generally, I don't like to have such troubling thoughts, and so I remained optimistic--thinking to myself, this is all part of the character building process of traveling, and through the backroads mountainous forests, made it to my destination sweaty, scratched and sunburnt (not to mention, bug bitten). Then I started chatting up a fellow Spanish traveler, who gave me a ride back to town so that I could catch the bus in time for dinner in Lanjarón, and that car ride was only five-minutes, just around the time I spent in my much sought after destination of Búbion. The things we do for adventure.

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 In the distance you can see Pampanerîa, the village I had hiked from to the point of where I took the picture. I know, I can't even believe it. AND I wasn't even close to my end destination. That's why I was still happy and taking photos.

It's now Saturday and I've still got the blisters to remind me of what a trek that was.

In any case, today was just as eventful--with lots of cooking, all day really! Ann's daughter and son-in-law are here for their first anniversary, and I had the pleasurable honor to cook the family a Spanish dinner inspired my employment at Jaleo, Jose Andrés' tapas restaurant in DC. And just thinking about my mom, I am reminded that cooking is labor intensive, and yet a simple pleasure in life. Oh, and what a feast it is to share!

for starters, Don something's bottled sangria..yes, bottled. cheap and convenient, and oh, so tasty. (note: artistan jug not included)

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three sides: apple, manchego cheese and almond salad (this was a first for me, and it was one to savor over!); the famous apple cider, red peppers quinoa salad (this time with white beans and pomegranates picked from Ann's tree) and of course, no Spanish meal is complete without patatas bravas (and my very own homemade, spicy romesco dipping sauce).
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and oh, the crowd pleaser of the evening-- paella! i have to say, i'm quite proud of myself. the only other time i had made paella was after moving into my apartment during my first week at cal, and for friends i had just made the day before.  i suppose this is a celebration of the new and old!
 
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and for dessert, something i've been drooling over just thinking about..the flan from jaleo. so light and airy and sweet and savory. this was my attempt, and thankfully, it was a success. russ licked every little bit off. you can find the recipe by googling jaleo flan.
 
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and leftover luxury brownies (not so spanish unless you consider the home grown almonds, hand-picked and cracked) i had made the night before as a welcoming treat for rachel and russ. this was my first attempt at tamami from coco and me's recipe. i have been a longtime follower of her blog and you can imagine how excited my tastebuds were when i got to visit her stall, live in action, at london's happenin' broadway market on the east end.

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and that is it for the night. according to my spanish time, it is now my best friend from high school, fiona's birthday! happy birthday fe!
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buenas noches, amores!


the labor of love for almonds

At La Casa del Viento, my appreciation for food deepens with each and every meal. Last night's warm, subtly sweet and savory almond soup attributes to that as Orfhlaith and I hand picked the almonds, cracked, dehusked and devoured them all!

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le almond tree

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 almonds are ready to be picked when their outer green shell opens 

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step one: collect bucket full of almonds

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step two: grab two sturdy rocks, one for almond bed, the other to smash

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step three: smash!

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step four: practice hope that most of your almonds remain whole

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step five: perfecto! look, two almonds in one.

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step six admire the almond, a beauty of a nut rich in flavor and full of antioxidants

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step six: continue until you have enough to boil and dehusk for your soup

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final step: enjoy! 
it's not every day you get to delight in an almond soup 
where the almonds are homegrown and handpicked and oh, so delightful.

mas manchego, que bueno!

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As soon as I stepped out of the bus and into the sweltering mountainous village of Lanjarón, I heard my name being called, "Connie, Connie!" in an upbeat British accent. Surely, enough, this must be Ann, I thought. She pulled up in her speedy little motor of a car, I hopped in, and off we were to La Casa del Viento, House of the Wind, my home, workplace and unexpectedly, a tucked away paradise in southern Spain.
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First, I want to tell you more about Ann and La Casa del Viento. House of the wind, as is the English translation, is Ann's home and work, which she's created with the help of HelpX-ers over the past nine years and counting. It's stunning and so obvious that so much work and love has gone behind it. Ann is about sixty or so, but with her energy, physique and charm, you'd think she was much, much younger. She's one to welcome with open arms, is so sweet, full of life, great recipes and plenty of stories. The kind of woman I aspire to be.
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As a HelpXer, I've been nurturing the plant life here. And on this massive land, there's plenty of sweat and love to go around. It's only been two days, but a lot of hard, rewarding and humbling work. There are trees, and trees galore of olives, almonds, figs, lemons, avocados, apples, pears, grapes, blackberries, cranberries, pomegranates, oh I can go on and then there are tomatoes, squash, greenbeans, cuccumbers, aubergine (eggplant) and (and that's just what's in season now!) -- and there's mint, thyme, rosemary, and my favorite, oh so favorite, jasmine, the scent just takes me this place of wonder-- all of this growing for our pleasurable consumption.
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What I love about being here, among many things, is being able to cook with the very own foods grown right in my eyesight. Above is what an almond tree looks like, who would've thunk? Yesterday, I dehusked a bucket of almonds and lost my nutroast virginity.
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Below was my first dinner--oven-roasted spaghetti squash with stuffed vegetables in a tomatoe sauce, potatoes roasted to a golden crisp and my very own nut roasted (I even hand-blended the almonds and fresh bread rolls myself!), complimented with a light Spanish white wine. A deliciuosly wholesome experience.
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I met Orfhlaith (the f and t are silent, pronounced Orla), such a sweet and open-minded recent high school grad from Dublin, Ireland. I fancy working with her. We've been pruning grapes, and might I say, they are quite the sticky mess. As they hang from their vines, some of them, when they're really ripe, drip and ooze this syrup that's sticky like sap. And nonetheless, they are ever so gorgeous. I've frozen a bunch just like at home when my sibs and I would freeze grapes during the summer and snack on them like candy by the pool.
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After a morning's work from 8am to 2pm with a coffee break at 11am and a scrumptious lunch made of various seasoned salads and cheeses, swimming and siestaing usually ensue.
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Yesterday, Orfhlaith and I headed into town for some tinto de verano and vermouth, popular Spanish summer drinks and of course, tapas. It was a hot and hilly trek full of rocks, but luckily, with the sweetness of picking fresh figs off the trees.
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I love the leathery texture of figs and their rich sweetness. They also remind me of two really dear friends. Tammy who's now studying and practicing yoga and learning Hindi in India, introduced me to fresh figs last year (fig newtons just don't count), and whenever I eat them, I think of her and of Natalie, where at her New Year's Eve Party made the most decadent goat-cheese and almond stuffed and baked figs. I attempted to replicate such an hor'dourve at lunch today, but it didn't come out quite as nice.
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In the town of Lanjarón, shops close around typical American dinner time and later open for a night full of tapas and fiestas. After all, hard work comes with hard play, only after proper rest.
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During closed hours, I noticed a fond separation of the sexes--old men sitting on benches while women sat in circles chatting. The old men and women, in their weathered looks of wisdom, quiet in passing and quite off-putting, are handsome and real in a beautiful way.
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 With the breathtaking sights, fresh and mouthwatering foods and sweet Ann and Orfhlaith who are like family, I don't think I can ask for more. This is my first HelpX experience, and thus far, it has been specatcular. While I am so grateful to be here, I am constantly thinking and in the little-ist things, am reminded of home, my loving family and friends, the food, comfort and warmth-- to balance it all and keep perspective is such a blessing.
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summer plans

it's official--i'm going to south america! i'll be flying into ecuador and hopefully making my way throughout peru and bolivia. and the amazing thing is my friend from new hampshire, michelle, who i'll be backpacking with will be on the same plane. both of us have stops in houston and so we'll be on the same flight there on into guayaquil. oh, so exciting!

ramblings on this weekend and the nearing spring break

insane weekend. activities included but not limited to: babysitting and getting locked in a room by a very sly 3 and a half year-old. not fun. luckily, i was able to take a half hour nap in justification for a need to rest and brainstorm ideas of how to pop open the lock. and so great of a nap that was as after i dozed, i felt energized and determined to twist the key knob with a book corner (very confusing) and the lock unsnapped. it was a great feeling. and later that night i went to a party. although my friend was celebrating his 24th, the festive event reminded me of a typical high school bash. the kind with bad music, lots of alcohol (though there was a great selection) and the needless drama of passouts and girlfriend-boyfriend fights. definitely not fun while sober.

today was much more relaxing. slept in, rested, watched a movie, and got a new pair of shoes. then spent several hours at a car dealership, which really felt like an eternity..perhaps the three most grueling hours of my life. just hearing my dad and jess talk drives me nuts. and this whole concept of caring so much about what car you drive and what it looks like and yaddi yadda is nonsense! it pains me to think of where so much of that money could have went, and for such better causes. ugh.

moving on. as an optimist i try to look towards the future. and that includes spring break which is coming up on the week of apr. 15th. i want to do something spontaneous. really, i just want to get out of this hole. i'm thinking about a road trip or buying a cheap plane ticket on jetblue and going to some place random and couch surfing throughout that area.

smell boston?