letter from varese, italia

I just got the email that made my day. My dearest friend Natalie and her beau, Nate, are traveling around Europe for six months, and I just got an update on how they've been doing. Their farm stories, talk of beautiful sights and all that food they're eating just makes me hungry and wanting to read more! Thought I'd share with you as an inspiration to go somewhere, Granada, Sardinia, anywhere! 

Dear family and friends!

Sorry this email is getting to you several weeks late. 

Here is an update on what we have been doing in the past two months or so:

Nate and I started our travels in  in Pollensa, Mallorca where we WWOOF-ed ( Willing Workers on Organic Farms) . The farm, the little quaint town of Pollensa were absolutely beautiful!! The farm produces organic olive oil (which was delicious!) using a very old and impressive pressing system (which I have pictures of.) The farm is owned by am American family living in Washington, D.C. and we worked alongside the ground-keeper, a local Mallorquin. We were given 50 Euro a week per person to buy food, and we had our own separate apartment in the house. Nate and I enjoyed cooking together every night, using the olive oil from the press. On the weekends, we walked to the cute town, especially enjoying the open air markets on Sunday. 

After that we spent two days in Barcelona and Nathan was completely blown away by La Sagrada Familia, which we were able to see the interior of. We of course also loved Park Guell and the other architectural gems in the city. 

Then it was off to Granada, Spain! I have been wanting to go to Granada ever since I saw a poster of the Alhambra.  We worked on an organic goat-raising and cheese-making farm about 30 km away from the city.  Most of our work involved taking care of the goats, which I really enjoyed! Goats are pretty darn cute! (Especially, the little baby goats who dance around) We herded them and make sure that they grazed on the pasture. The farm reminded me of the hippy coops I lived in in Berkeley. At the house were other volunteers from Italy, Germany and Spain.  We ate fresh and cured goat cheese pretty much every day (as well as milk and amazing yogurt!) YUMMMMM. Although the weather was COLD COLD COLD, the beautiful landscapes, cute goats, delicious cheese, and hilarious hippy farm owner (Rafael) made it definitely worth it!!!

Although we loved the goat farm, it was nice to reconnected with civilzation in the city of Granada. The town reminds me of UC Berkeley in the fact that many of the residents are students, and there is definitely a bohemian vibe to the place- although Berkeley cannot lay claim to having the Alhambra right smack in the middle. Nathan, a German volunteer at the farm and I stayed at a lovely guest house near the Mirador San Nicolas, which overlooks the Alhambra and the beautiful snow-covered mountains. Emily would also love Granada, because with the purchase of one or two drinks, you get UNLIMITED TAPAS!!! (Sorry if this whole email is about FOOD, haha) 

From there was the city of SEVILLA. Nathan was pretty blown away by the city- it was incredibly beautiful. The cathedral housing the remains of Christopher Columbus and the Plaza de Espana (where witch-burnings took place during the Inquisition) were definite highlights. Also the bloom of orange trees everywhere in the city was an amazing thing.

From Sevilla we fly to Sardinia, Italy. Highlights there include the beautiful beach and archeological sties at Nora, an ancient Phonencian and then Roman city (outside of the capital) and staying in a quaint town called Bosa near Alghero in the north. 

Then it was off to ROMA where Emily's friend PAOLA was incredibly hospitable!!! We stayed at her apartment a good 5 or 6 nights! I absolutely loved Rome and had a hard time leaving. Nathan and I did not know how to express our gratitude to Paola and her roommate (because we don't really know what they like), so we cooked them a Mexican dinner with hand-made torillas and an assortment of fresh salsas. They really enjoyed it!!

Then it was off to an herb-distillation farm  (Podere Santa Bianca) in Pomerance in the province of Pisa, which of course is in beautiful Tuscany. The farm was established only a few years ago by Claudio Gaiaschi, who was a successful photograher in Milan but wanted a change of pace in life and renovated an abandoned farm. They grow lavender, rosemary, thyme and (not sure what it is called in english, but they it "CREE-ZOH"). Needless to say, it was the best smelling farm yet! We ate dinner with Claudio and his wife every night and Nathan offered to cook Mexican food one night. I was incredibly anxious at the thought of cooking for TUSCANS (Claudio's partner was born and raised in Tuscany), seeing that they are incredibly proud of their food culture. They then invited two other foodie Tuscan friends to the dinner. Needless to say I was nervous about the meal, but we made fresh corn and flour tortillas, a variety of salsa, chicken fajitas, and rice. THEY LOVED IT!!! They ate everything--- and we made a lot. What a relief. 

Then we spent one night in PISA, took funny pictures in front of the Leaning Tower and then spent about three nights in the cute little town of LUCCA, in Tuscany. We had a great time biking around the city, and we even set up a vegetable garden for the young woman we stayed with. 

From there we spent three nights in FLORENCE, which was expensive but definitely a treat. We slept in a hostel near Piazzale Michaelangiolo, which over looks the city- it was the best view in town. The obvious highlights were the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery, which we wasily spent 4.5 hours in. I loved the Botticelli's and Caravaggio's.  

Then it was off to Amedeo's place in Varese. We have had a nice week here and are about to take off to Torino, again to hang out with Paola and her family. 

All in all, our experience thus far has been nothing short of amazing. We are constantly meeting great people, eating good food and learning new things (like the best way to herd goats, haha). 

Oh, and par for par, every city we have been in is full of Senegalese street vendors. The majority of them get a little freaked out when a tall white guy from the States starts speaking to them in their language. 

Anyhoo, sorry this is getting to you so late. I really miss all of you!!! Big hugs and Kisses, 

Nat & Nate

tinto de verano

a hint of summer,  tinto de verano is more popular than sangria in Granada, España--the casual chic city that also serves free tapas, as they should be.  I thought this reminiscing would help me get through the week and onto PRIDE weekend where there won't be tinto, but hopefully lots of fun and excitement. 

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tapas, bocadillos con patatas and cheese fritters

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missing my mama; reflections on madrid

Madrid is one of those cities that surprises you every time, and an example of what a metropolis should be like--super navigable via your own two feet. I visited Madrid on three separate occasions, and loved it more each time. The first time, I was coming from Granada and shocked by the big city feel, but after a slice of tortilla española and glass of vino blanco, I was quickly comforted.


While volunteering at Pueblo Ingles, I made many Spanish friends who invited me to stay with them while traveling in their cities. Those have been my favorite and most memorable experiences--the first was with Lola in Madrid. I think her name says a lot about her. A remarkable, chic and classic Almodóvar woman. To the right her is dog, Cuba. Adorable, no?

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After Portugal, I flew back to Madrid and spent a few days with Paloma's family. The English translation to Paloma is 'dove' and I don't think there's a better word to describe this woman. Always smiling and ever so patient, Paloma is a sweet Madrillena of many generations. She picked me up at the Metro and we had a beautiful afternoon-into-the-evening walk around El Retiro park, caught the Día de la Hispanidad (Columbus' discovery of the America's celebration) parade by surprise, and finished the evening with gourmet tapas and vino.

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el retiro park
 
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tapas in the plaza: camembert cheese sauteed with a little bit of sugar and topped with a slice of roasted red pepper; manchego and spinach salad with salmon; fried rolls stuffed with cheese

One of my fondest memories is of hanging out with her teenage son, David--we spent the entire afternoon at the shopping mall searching for a replacement battery for my cell phone, munched on candy-store bought popcorn and stoppped to talk to everyone he knew in town (I'm convinced he knows everyone in Madrid!)

Another memorable moment--hanging out with CSer Jose. He introduced me to one of my favorite parts of Madrid, Lavapíes. Lola calls it the worst and best place to go in the city. Lots of alternative bars and restaurants (had a very filling Lebanese din din), street dealers and alas in Spain, some ethnic diversity. That night we went to hear a friend of a friend's terrible rock band play followed by some strong shots of rum or something of that nature. Check out this pizza we made using all fresh ingredients found in Madrid...a Spanish pizza!
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How fitting as I write this while in Itay where I've eaten one too many slices of pizza, plates of pasta and scoopfulls of gelato. That post and more to come.

i think it was fate that brought me back to barcelona...

This morning I missed my train to Montpellier and then caught the wrong one from Girona to Barcelona. What a pity. I'm sitting here drinking suave Pilsner Urquell, munching on bar nuts and thinking about what an unbelievable time I have had in Spain. I'm just not ready to leave.

Before Girona I was in Barcelona couchsurfing with Elvira and then stayed with my Pueblo Ingles friend, Gloria and her wonderfully generous family for nearly a week.  It was like living the Catalan life-- playing fútbol with her son, 8-year old Marcel, listening to Albert sing, browsing the markets. indulging in the pasteries across the street, laughing over family dinners. That was my favorite part. Something about sharing meals is so simple and yet so special. My last evening I cooked for the fam and made my green curry specialty.

Barcelona is one of those places people rave about and you don't quite understand until you've experienced it for yourself. It's intoxicating. And I love it. Why?  For one, the tapas.

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 I don't even know how to begin to describe the deliciousness that were these tapas. A shmear of blended cheeses and sprinkled with surprises. My favorite was the walnut one with a little cinnamon sugar and walnuts bits, both sweet and savory. Another I enjoyed (really, I enjoyed them all) was layered with a slice of tomato, a triangle-sized mozzarella and the best part, topped with a pesto salsa and bits of green and red peppers.  Above, the stuffed red pepper glazed with a little alioli and sprinkled with little shavings of cheese and parsley was like a little party in my mouth.
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Barrio de Gracía is my favorite pocket in the big B. Not just because it's where Gloria's family is from, but because it's got this small town feel with a massive outdoor market with fresh produce and everything you can imagine to the freshest seafood available, a library, galleries, bookstores, pastries and bread shops, and more shops of fresh cheeses, shoes, clothes, everything, restaurants and cafés, all within a 2-second walking distance. Why leave Barca?!

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(note: i started this post thursday, oct 22nd. i made it safely to Montpellier, had a nice if not sad two days (because i lost my camera),  then a day in Nice (gorgeous beaches in an expensive town) and am now in Roma where I find the Italian accent so, so sexy.)

a photo entry for the past two weeks

I can't believe it's been more than a month since I've been gone, and I have so much to recount and not nearly enough time or energy to jot it down. Hopefully, these pictures will capture even just a little bit of the wonders in Spain.

helpXing at Caballo Blanco Horse Trekking Camp

friends, meet Lucero. Isn't he a cutie?

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Just about to take Molly for a ride (after a long hot day of feeding, mucking the stables, brushing, sweating, all that jazz)
 
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And the beautiful view of Caeña on horseback (I won't even begin to explain how I almost dropped my camera when Pixchie decided we should canter) 
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helpXing with Julia, Rupert, Wim and Kes

veggies and flowers from their garden

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my masterpiece (i learned to tile!)

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by the campfire @ Beneficio, an alternative eco-conscious community in Orgiva/Caeña
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Granada --
 The Alhambra
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ma ma ---- Madrid!

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the view from my friend lisa's flat
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i'm pooped and my throat hurts, which is not good because tomorrow is my first day volunteering as an "anglo" at pueblo ingles, an intense weeklong program for spaniards to improve their english by immersing themselves completely in it. it should be fun and easy. i mean, all i have to do is speak my native tongue, right?

buenas noches--
xoxo

the labor of love for almonds

At La Casa del Viento, my appreciation for food deepens with each and every meal. Last night's warm, subtly sweet and savory almond soup attributes to that as Orfhlaith and I hand picked the almonds, cracked, dehusked and devoured them all!

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le almond tree

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 almonds are ready to be picked when their outer green shell opens 

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step one: collect bucket full of almonds

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step two: grab two sturdy rocks, one for almond bed, the other to smash

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step three: smash!

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step four: practice hope that most of your almonds remain whole

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step five: perfecto! look, two almonds in one.

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step six admire the almond, a beauty of a nut rich in flavor and full of antioxidants

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step six: continue until you have enough to boil and dehusk for your soup

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final step: enjoy! 
it's not every day you get to delight in an almond soup 
where the almonds are homegrown and handpicked and oh, so delightful.

mas manchego, que bueno!

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As soon as I stepped out of the bus and into the sweltering mountainous village of Lanjarón, I heard my name being called, "Connie, Connie!" in an upbeat British accent. Surely, enough, this must be Ann, I thought. She pulled up in her speedy little motor of a car, I hopped in, and off we were to La Casa del Viento, House of the Wind, my home, workplace and unexpectedly, a tucked away paradise in southern Spain.
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First, I want to tell you more about Ann and La Casa del Viento. House of the wind, as is the English translation, is Ann's home and work, which she's created with the help of HelpX-ers over the past nine years and counting. It's stunning and so obvious that so much work and love has gone behind it. Ann is about sixty or so, but with her energy, physique and charm, you'd think she was much, much younger. She's one to welcome with open arms, is so sweet, full of life, great recipes and plenty of stories. The kind of woman I aspire to be.
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As a HelpXer, I've been nurturing the plant life here. And on this massive land, there's plenty of sweat and love to go around. It's only been two days, but a lot of hard, rewarding and humbling work. There are trees, and trees galore of olives, almonds, figs, lemons, avocados, apples, pears, grapes, blackberries, cranberries, pomegranates, oh I can go on and then there are tomatoes, squash, greenbeans, cuccumbers, aubergine (eggplant) and (and that's just what's in season now!) -- and there's mint, thyme, rosemary, and my favorite, oh so favorite, jasmine, the scent just takes me this place of wonder-- all of this growing for our pleasurable consumption.
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What I love about being here, among many things, is being able to cook with the very own foods grown right in my eyesight. Above is what an almond tree looks like, who would've thunk? Yesterday, I dehusked a bucket of almonds and lost my nutroast virginity.
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Below was my first dinner--oven-roasted spaghetti squash with stuffed vegetables in a tomatoe sauce, potatoes roasted to a golden crisp and my very own nut roasted (I even hand-blended the almonds and fresh bread rolls myself!), complimented with a light Spanish white wine. A deliciuosly wholesome experience.
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I met Orfhlaith (the f and t are silent, pronounced Orla), such a sweet and open-minded recent high school grad from Dublin, Ireland. I fancy working with her. We've been pruning grapes, and might I say, they are quite the sticky mess. As they hang from their vines, some of them, when they're really ripe, drip and ooze this syrup that's sticky like sap. And nonetheless, they are ever so gorgeous. I've frozen a bunch just like at home when my sibs and I would freeze grapes during the summer and snack on them like candy by the pool.
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After a morning's work from 8am to 2pm with a coffee break at 11am and a scrumptious lunch made of various seasoned salads and cheeses, swimming and siestaing usually ensue.
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Yesterday, Orfhlaith and I headed into town for some tinto de verano and vermouth, popular Spanish summer drinks and of course, tapas. It was a hot and hilly trek full of rocks, but luckily, with the sweetness of picking fresh figs off the trees.
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I love the leathery texture of figs and their rich sweetness. They also remind me of two really dear friends. Tammy who's now studying and practicing yoga and learning Hindi in India, introduced me to fresh figs last year (fig newtons just don't count), and whenever I eat them, I think of her and of Natalie, where at her New Year's Eve Party made the most decadent goat-cheese and almond stuffed and baked figs. I attempted to replicate such an hor'dourve at lunch today, but it didn't come out quite as nice.
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In the town of Lanjarón, shops close around typical American dinner time and later open for a night full of tapas and fiestas. After all, hard work comes with hard play, only after proper rest.
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During closed hours, I noticed a fond separation of the sexes--old men sitting on benches while women sat in circles chatting. The old men and women, in their weathered looks of wisdom, quiet in passing and quite off-putting, are handsome and real in a beautiful way.
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 With the breathtaking sights, fresh and mouthwatering foods and sweet Ann and Orfhlaith who are like family, I don't think I can ask for more. This is my first HelpX experience, and thus far, it has been specatcular. While I am so grateful to be here, I am constantly thinking and in the little-ist things, am reminded of home, my loving family and friends, the food, comfort and warmth-- to balance it all and keep perspective is such a blessing.
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